Above left: Recipe #1 (Baker KCl/citric acid), plain hypo developer, untoned
Above right: Recipe #2 (Ammonium chloride/sodium potassium tartrate/citric acid), plain hypo developer, untoned
The above two prints were exposed under UV light (Edwards Engineered Products, UV light box; http://www.eepjon.com/uv.htm) The exposure was only 7 minutes. A non-UV light panel is about an hour. Note the density in the highlight areas. This doesn't show up in the non-UV light prints. I think different negatives may be required for the different light sources, but I haven't chased that down yet.
For the print on the right, note the variation in density around the border. I failed to center the printing frame in UV box. oops. Whether or not maximum density is achieved in the border is a matter of personal taste. However, if the border had been uniformly pale, that would have meant that maximum density had not been achieved in the shadows of the print. Dmax in shadows isn't required with all prints (think high key), but hitting the full contrast range potential of a printing process is usually the goal.
One last word here about color. Toning.
The print on the left is Recipe #1, untoned (printed with non-UV light).
The print on the right is the test print for the full print from Recipe #2 (on the left in the set above this one), re-wet and toned with an ammonium thiocyanate/gold toner. The toner was from Clerc and I'll post the recipe again on page 13. If you prefer making and coating Recipe #2, but aren't crazy about the orange color, then toning may be the ticket.